QUOTE (Ianus @ Dec 3 2007, 01:14 PM)

Did you even bother to do some passing research on the topic? It seems not. How restrictive a garment is, is not determined by the material alone, but by the way it is sewn and cut too. That's something owners of suits and trench coats are painfully aware of.
And knights clothed in iron armour would have moved about with all the agility of a metal statue, if it was not for the cut of every single piece of iron on their person. Furthermore, there's plenty pictures of european gambesons with close-sewned sleeves around, if only you would bother to resarch the topic before writing about it on the internet...
http://warriorsofhistory.com/research/14th...blois_coat2.jpgHere's an example of an european arming coat.

Here's an example of a period illustration showing people in what we believe to be gambesons.
Which periode? English archers, swedish free peasants and the retainers of knights were all required to own armour by law, to name a few instances.
Greetings Ianus,
I see you are a bit aggressive out of the starting gate, Eh?
As far as for Swedes go I can not speak, I have no idea as to what they were required to wear, as I was speaking of English/ French and Burgundian gambesons.
Retainer knights were expected to have their own armor, but it was not always up to date. The lower/ poorer you were in ranking the older the armor would be. Not every knight / squire and peasant was armed and dressed for a hollywood movie. You seriously don't think that every soldier wore a pigfaced bassent?
QUOTE
Did you even bother to do some passing research on the topic?
Hmm , maybe a bit of passing politeness would have worked here?
If we are to use your example, of the most up to date fashion, then I would be incorrect, but I was not referring to the nobility. I was referring to was
earlier period gambesons that would have been worn under chain mail ( if you had some).
Please re read what I wrote:
QUOTE
This would make a padded silk garment a much better protection and padding then the gambeson of the
early Western medieval armor of the 13th and 14th Century.
QUOTE
Lets look at a couple of aspects to history:
1] How often is the common soldier depicted or written about.?
Even in the west, the commoner did not have armor unless he took it off a dead soldier.
Oh yeas, even with that error you point out, who are you to know that I have done no research in this subject?
1] I majored in costuming, specializing in the early medieval clothing...... so I have done the research.
2] I am also a tailor by trade so I know how clothing is constructed.
3] I have made padded / quilted garments and know where they bind and restrict movement when being worn in active physical activities for martial arts / self defense classes.
4] because I have custom designed and worn for myself padded garments used in active ( barroom style) fencing.
The areas that would be restrictive such as the armpit and the elbow might / could have fabric covering the area, and not just an open hole, but the padding would be much less in those areas if you want full movement in a tightly cut garment. Especially in the 14th c when the usual cut of the sleeve was quite high in the pit. As they were just beginning to understand how to make the bias in the fabric work for you as a natural ease in the fit of a garment.
It is very difficult to pad the armpit enough and I know cause I have been hit there too many times …Ouch
If silk were used it would give the protection or at least slow down a slash or puncture that an uncovered / un padded area would not.
The picture you show is I believe a Pourpoint worn by Charles of Blois. Not a gambeson.
It is an example of late period transitional ( after 1350 )
And although it evolved from a gambeson , it was no longer worn as an undergarment to pad the body when wearing chain mail, but was now worn as an outer garment.
Your example is a very early version of this style which became much more common in the 15th
century and quite the latest in fashion for only the wealthiest of nobles at that time..
1] I doubt if this example you show would have been worn with armor over it because of the ball buttons.
a] the mail would have gotten caught on the buttons if mail was worn.
b] The buttons would have been in the way of the straps for the vambraces (arm armor)( and excurse me if I did not use the current proper term for the armor, that too varied from region to region and period to period )
2] It is most likely that the reason this example survived is that it was not worn in battle but for dress
(Sort of like the reason there are so many examples of balls and chain weapons is because they were used once and the user found out it was more dangerous to himself then to the intended victim and threw the weapon over in a corner of the armory., Much of what has survived is the stuff that was not used.)
The cut of the sleeve indicates late period. The sleeve would have been cut in two pieces with a seam running from pit to wrist and a second one from neck to elbow and then down to the outer wrist.
The pattern would have been cut on the bias so to use the natural stretch of the bias at the elbow and pit..
Since I was not referring to high fashion, but what the peasants would have worn, I think this is a not a good example to try to refute my statements.
Even granting all those things,
You can see though that there is not a lot of bulk under the pit indicating that there is not as many layers of padding there.
But even then it would not have been as comfortable as what we are used to wearing. In our modern clothing there is usually allowed a 1 to 3 inch ease in the armpit area. This cut would have dug into the pit.
In my earlier post, I was referring to the gambeson ( French) or Wammes (German / English) which were the were made out of leather or padded fabric and worn under chain mail. The sleeves were made separate and sewn on loosely from front to back or tied on with laces. You would not know that the armpit was open unless the arm was raised. And you do not usually see this depicted in illustrations. Because they would have been covered by not only the chain mail( if the peasant had some, but also a surcote and or a tunic over the mail.
I also was not referring to the nobility and someone who would have the most current of styles. The example you show is high fashion in the late 14th c. The nobles would be parading around the Pas d’ arms tournament strutting like peacocks in the garment you show.
The only lower class you would see wearing anything like this would be the peasant wearing a Cote Hardy( what we think of as a jesters outfit)
But the lower you were in rank the less up to date your armor was. You simply could not afford what the nobles wore. So in that regard I am not so far from the correct period reference. Not every soldier was able to be high fashion. Not even all knights would be able to afford to stay up to date. And I can assure you that the artist used a bit of artistic licence.
the peasants would have been wearing old rusty beat up barral helms if they were that lucky to have anything. Corboullie(sp?) (leather boiled in wax) half helms would have been much more likely.
I may be a bit rusty on some of my knowledge, I studied this 35 years ago.
I know what I am talking about probably a lot more on this subject then in anything concerning Chinese history. I am not the end-all expert in this subject…..But…….
I think that you could have read my post a bit better and been a little less aggressive in your assumption that I did not know anything about this. I did not go into greater detail because we are on a forum pertaining to China.