Help - Search - Members - Calendar
Full Version: Ancient Chinese hats
China History Forum, Chinese History Forum > Chinese Culture Topics > General Chinese Culture > Chinese Dressing and Fashion
HaSY
does anyone have any information or pictures of ancient chinese hats?
are they just? a cloth wrapped aroung your head? I would like to know their history too!
General_Zhaoyun
Some information regarding chinese hat's history from http://www.insm.org/live/clothes.file/199919021848.shtml

我国戴帽子的历史很久了,早在春秋战国以前,人们都是戴帽子的,并且是皮帽子。只是后来随着封建制度的建立,,等级制度的出现,一般有地位有身份的人才转而戴弁、冠、冕等,帽子转而成了小孩的专用品。到晋代已经要求不是那样很严格了,一般士人亦可戴帽子。实际上在三国时期,凡不做官的士人就可以戴帽子,有名的高士管宁就在家中戴黑布帽子,但在正式场合是不允许戴帽子的,而要按规定戴冠和帻等。

Translation:

China's hat history is very ancient, dating back from Spring/Autumn period, people had already started wearing hats. During that time, hat was made of leather. As the feudal system was established with the appearance of hierachical ranking system, those people started to wear different types of hat such as "Bian", "Guan", "Mian" etc to reflect their social status. Hat also became children's used item. By Jin dynasty, the laws regarding the hat were not so strict and every person can wear hat. Actually, during 3 kingdom period, those who do not work for government can also wear hat. Most famous offical wear black hat at home, and in formal occasion, wearing hat is not allowed, but one has to wear more formal kind of hats such as "Guan" or "Ze" etc.


  有趣的是,在汉族已不是很讲究的时候,作为习惯于戴帽子的少数民族,一面推行汉化制度,一面却严格要求不得戴帽子,还有人为此丢了官。北魏孝文帝一次南征回京,见城里妇女仍有戴帽子穿小袄的,就责备留守的任城王元澄,问他为何不管,元澄辩解说,戴帽子穿小袄的只是少数。孝文帝很生气,质问他:“你是否觉得全城人都应该戴帽子穿小袄呢?”结果将任城王及其他留守的官员全罢免了,演出了我国历史上为帽子而丢官的一幕,可见戴不戴帽子在当时有着重要的政治意义。此事在《魏书》《北史》上都有记载。而据《宋书·礼志》记载,当时的南方,百姓已普遍戴帽子,且士大夫也逐渐以帽子为常服,这对推行汉化的北魏不啻是一个讽刺。  

Translation:

What's interesting is that while the han-chinese no longer emphasized the wearing of hats, the minority ethnic, who were used to wearing hat, started to forbid the wearing of hats as they sinificized. During that time, some even lost their job (for their post in court). There was one time when Northern Wei's Emperor Xiaowen was on his way back to the capital, he saw a girl who is wearing a hat. He reprimanded the governor of that city why he didn't care. The governor said, only a few minority wore hat. Xiaowen was very angry, saying "do you think, all the city folks had to wear hat". As a result, he sacked the governor and all the offficials there. This was the first historical incidence when an offical lost his job because of a 'hat'. From this incident, we can understand that at that time "wearing a hat" had an important political implication. This incident was recorded in "The History of the Northern Wei" and "Northern History". At that time, in the south, it was quite normal and popular for peasants and citizens to wear hat. Also, most officials also wear hat as common part of dressing. This was a satire against the sinification policy of northern Wei.


  由于帽子有其方便的一面,因而北魏以后,士大夫阶级也逐渐戴起了帽子,成为日常生活中的一般打扮。到隋唐以后,由于民族的大融合,帽子成为人们日常普遍的一种服饰,并且和现代的帽子一样,容易脱掉。

Translation:

Because wearing hat was quite convenient, after Northern Wei dynasty, most of the elite began to wear a hat and it became a common fashion. By Sui and Tang period, because of the great mixing of various ethnicities, the hat became a common item in daily dressing. It was also easy to take off, just like today's hat.

  古代人戴帽子也和现在一样,喜欢赶时髦,后周时独孤信打猎时帽子稍微斜了点,结果百姓戴帽子都要学他将帽子斜戴上,以为时髦。隋文帝杨坚未当皇帝以前,因脖子上长有一肉瘤,怕人看见,便戴帽子以遮掩,竟流行而为时尚。

Translation:

The ancient chinese who wore hat were like today's people who like to keep up with fashion. During Later Zhou period, Dugu Xin, when hunting, had his hat slightly slanted, as a result, many chinese began to copy his style of wearing the hat slanted, which became a fashion. After Sui Wendi, Yang Jian, became emperor, because he had a sore bulging out from his neck, afraid that people will see it, he used the hat to cover it up, and this also became a fashion.

  帽子的类很多,魏晋南北朝时期就有突孙帽、大帽子、白纱帽、乌纱帽、皂帽等;唐宋时代有席帽、浑脱帽、毡帽、压耳帽、风帽、妇女戴的帷帽、胡帽等;明清有棕结草帽、遮阳大帽、圆帽、鹅帽、堂帽、巾管帽、瓦楞毡帽、小帽、卷檐毡帽、皮帽、狗头帽、凉帽等等。它们因材质、形状等的不同,而分别具有防风、遮阳、保暖、美饰等功用。这其中最负盛名的乃是乌纱帽。

Translation:

The types of hats were many. During Wei-Jin North South dynasty, there are 'Tu Sun" hat, "Big hat", "Wu Sha" hat, "Zhao" hat etc. During Tang and Song period, there are "Du" hat, "Hun Tuo" hat, "Zhan" Hat, "Ya Er" hat', "Feng" hat as well as the "Wo" hat, "Hu" hat worn by ladies. During Ming and Qing period, there were "Zhong Jie" Grass hat, "Protect against Sun" hat, "Rounded" hat, "Goose" hat, "Tang" hat, "Jin Guan" hat, "Wa Neng Tan" hat, "Small" hat, "Juan Yan Zhan" hat, 'leather' hat, "Dog-head" hat, "liang" hat etc. They differed in quality of mateerial, and shaped and were categorized into different forms of use such as protection from wind, shield against sun, for warming, decoration etc. Amongst all these hat, the most celebrated hat is stilll "Wu Sha" hat.


  乌纱帽,顾名思义就是用黑色的纱制作的帽子。它不是严格的一类帽子,而是将凡是用乌纱制作的帽子都可称为乌纱帽。在隋以前,帝王戴白纱帽。宫官和官宦有戴乌纱帽的。隋唐时乌纱帽成为朝中官员的一般顶戴。到宋代,四脚幞头兴起,原来式样的乌纱帽逐渐废止,但由于幞头亦多用乌纱制作,故仍将幞头称为乌纱帽。宋代乌纱帽多为展脚,即帽翅平展,据说这样可以防止大臣们在朝上窃窃私语。在明代,官员戴的乌纱帽的定制是前低后高呈台阶形,两翅为牛舌形,宽寸余,长五寸,但亦有戴其他样式者。由于明代只有官吏才能戴乌纱帽,故后世将乌纱帽作为官帽的代称。后世在舞台上出现的官员所戴的乌纱帽就是明代的式样。乌纱帽到清代即废止了。 (王亦军)

Translation:

The "Wu Sha" hat, from the name's meaning, implied that it uses the black-colored "Sha" (a type of cotton) to knit. Strictly speaking, it is not a type of hat. It just mean that any hat that uses "Sha" to knit was called "Wu Sha" hat. Before Sui, most emperor wore White Sha Hat. Most official wore "Wu Sha" hat. During Sui-Tang period, "Wu Sha" hat became the common hat worn in court. During Song period, "Wu Sha" hat had extended "legs" (a form of extention ). According to history, this was to prevent officials to engage in secret talks. By Ming period, the "Wu Sha' hat's standard design is: low at the front, high at the back, like a stair-case, the two 'feathers" are like the cow's tongue, had a length of 5 inches. Because during Ming period, only officals can wear "Wu Sha" hat, this thus became the 'offical hat" of court mandarins. By Qing period, "Wu Sha" hat was abolished.


An example of "Wu Sha" hat
HaSY
well...thanks for ur info...Gz
Kenneth
I am not at home at the moment so can't name specifics...but wasnt there a Spring and Autumn official who when his Lord was overthrown he refused to flee and stayed in the city so as to denounce the usurpers from a public square.
A soldier struck at him with a lance and cut the chin strap of his hat. The wounded scholar picked up his hat as the troops closed around him saying 'a gentleman dies with his hat on' and he secured it back atop his heads as the soldiers pierced him and killed him.
Supposed to be one of those tales of loyalty unto death.

I am sure people here will know the story better than me as I wasnt bought up on this stuff.

What was the period...name and such of this tale?
It was very old and shows, as GZ said, that it was a status symbol by the Spring & Autumn.
Kenneth
a good way to see images of dress styles (before photograph existed) is to study the rich record left by the Chinese practice of burying ceramics in tombs.

It is worth periodically checking this site as he always has such objects there and they are authentic (a rare thing on e-bay)
At present he has a few from Han to MIng......

http://www.allensantiques.com
Daggerhelp
QUOTE(General_Zhaoyun @ Mar 6 2005, 07:49 AM) [snapback]4703878[/snapback]
Some information regarding chinese hat's history from http://www.insm.org/live/clothes.file/199919021848.shtml

我国戴帽子的历史很久了,早在春秋战国以前,人们都是戴帽子的,并且是皮帽子。只是后来随着封建制度的建立,,等级制度的出现,一般有地位有身份的人才转而戴弁、冠、冕等,帽子转而成了小孩的专用品。到晋代已经要求不是那样很严格了,一般士人亦可戴帽子。实际上在三国时期,凡不做官的士人就可以戴帽子,有名的高士管宁就在家中戴黑布帽子,但在正式场合是不允许戴帽子的,而要按规定戴冠和帻等。

Translation:

China's hat history is very ancient, dating back from Spring/Autumn period, people had already started wearing hats. During that time, hat was made of leather. As the feudal system was established with the appearance of hierachical ranking system, those people started to wear different types of hat such as "Bian", "Guan", "Mian" etc to reflect their social status. Hat also became children's used item. By Jin dynasty, the laws regarding the hat were not so strict and every person can wear hat. Actually, during 3 kingdom period, those who do not work for government can also wear hat. Most famous offical wear black hat at home, and in formal occasion, wearing hat is not allowed, but one has to wear more formal kind of hats such as "Guan" or "Ze" etc.
  有趣的是,在汉族已不是很讲究的时候,作为习惯于戴帽子的少数民族,一面推行汉化制度,一面却严格要求不得戴帽子,还有人为此丢了官。北魏孝文帝一次南征回京,见城里妇女仍有戴帽子穿小袄的,就责备留守的任城王元澄,问他为何不管,元澄辩解说,戴帽子穿小袄的只是少数。孝文帝很生气,质问他:“你是否觉得全城人都应该戴帽子穿小袄呢?”结果将任城王及其他留守的官员全罢免了,演出了我国历史上为帽子而丢官的一幕,可见戴不戴帽子在当时有着重要的政治意义。此事在《魏书》《北史》上都有记载。而据《宋书·礼志》记载,当时的南方,百姓已普遍戴帽子,且士大夫也逐渐以帽子为常服,这对推行汉化的北魏不啻是一个讽刺。  

Translation:

What's interesting is that while the han-chinese no longer emphasized the wearing of hats, the minority ethnic, who were used to wearing hat, started to forbid the wearing of hats as they sinificized. During that time, some even lost their job (for their post in court). There was one time when Northern Wei's Emperor Xiaowen was on his way back to the capital, he saw a girl who is wearing a hat. He reprimanded the governor of that city why he didn't care. The governor said, only a few minority wore hat. Xiaowen was very angry, saying "do you think, all the city folks had to wear hat". As a result, he sacked the governor and all the offficials there. This was the first historical incidence when an offical lost his job because of a 'hat'. From this incident, we can understand that at that time "wearing a hat" had an important political implication. This incident was recorded in "The History of the Northern Wei" and "Northern History". At that time, in the south, it was quite normal and popular for peasants and citizens to wear hat. Also, most officials also wear hat as common part of dressing. This was a satire against the sinification policy of northern Wei.
  由于帽子有其方便的一面,因而北魏以后,士大夫阶级也逐渐戴起了帽子,成为日常生活中的一般打扮。到隋唐以后,由于民族的大融合,帽子成为人们日常普遍的一种服饰,并且和现代的帽子一样,容易脱掉。

Translation:

Because wearing hat was quite convenient, after Northern Wei dynasty, most of the elite began to wear a hat and it became a common fashion. By Sui and Tang period, because of the great mixing of various ethnicities, the hat became a common item in daily dressing. It was also easy to take off, just like today's hat.

  古代人戴帽子也和现在一样,喜欢赶时髦,后周时独孤信打猎时帽子稍微斜了点,结果百姓戴帽子都要学他将帽子斜戴上,以为时髦。隋文帝杨坚未当皇帝以前,因脖子上长有一肉瘤,怕人看见,便戴帽子以遮掩,竟流行而为时尚。

Translation:

The ancient chinese who wore hat were like today's people who like to keep up with fashion. During Later Zhou period, Dugu Xin, when hunting, had his hat slightly slanted, as a result, many chinese began to copy his style of wearing the hat slanted, which became a fashion. After Sui Wendi, Yang Jian, became emperor, because he had a sore bulging out from his neck, afraid that people will see it, he used the hat to cover it up, and this also became a fashion.

  帽子的类很多,魏晋南北朝时期就有突孙帽、大帽子、白纱帽、乌纱帽、皂帽等;唐宋时代有席帽、浑脱帽、毡帽、压耳帽、风帽、妇女戴的帷帽、胡帽等;明清有棕结草帽、遮阳大帽、圆帽、鹅帽、堂帽、巾管帽、瓦楞毡帽、小帽、卷檐毡帽、皮帽、狗头帽、凉帽等等。它们因材质、形状等的不同,而分别具有防风、遮阳、保暖、美饰等功用。这其中最负盛名的乃是乌纱帽。

Translation:

The types of hats were many. During Wei-Jin North South dynasty, there are 'Tu Sun" hat, "Big hat", "Wu Sha" hat, "Zhao" hat etc. During Tang and Song period, there are "Du" hat, "Hun Tuo" hat, "Zhan" Hat, "Ya Er" hat', "Feng" hat as well as the "Wo" hat, "Hu" hat worn by ladies. During Ming and Qing period, there were "Zhong Jie" Grass hat, "Protect against Sun" hat, "Rounded" hat, "Goose" hat, "Tang" hat, "Jin Guan" hat, "Wa Neng Tan" hat, "Small" hat, "Juan Yan Zhan" hat, 'leather' hat, "Dog-head" hat, "liang" hat etc. They differed in quality of mateerial, and shaped and were categorized into different forms of use such as protection from wind, shield against sun, for warming, decoration etc. Amongst all these hat, the most celebrated hat is stilll "Wu Sha" hat.
  乌纱帽,顾名思义就是用黑色的纱制作的帽子。它不是严格的一类帽子,而是将凡是用乌纱制作的帽子都可称为乌纱帽。在隋以前,帝王戴白纱帽。宫官和官宦有戴乌纱帽的。隋唐时乌纱帽成为朝中官员的一般顶戴。到宋代,四脚幞头兴起,原来式样的乌纱帽逐渐废止,但由于幞头亦多用乌纱制作,故仍将幞头称为乌纱帽。宋代乌纱帽多为展脚,即帽翅平展,据说这样可以防止大臣们在朝上窃窃私语。在明代,官员戴的乌纱帽的定制是前低后高呈台阶形,两翅为牛舌形,宽寸余,长五寸,但亦有戴其他样式者。由于明代只有官吏才能戴乌纱帽,故后世将乌纱帽作为官帽的代称。后世在舞台上出现的官员所戴的乌纱帽就是明代的式样。乌纱帽到清代即废止了。 (王亦军)

Translation:

The "Wu Sha" hat, from the name's meaning, implied that it uses the black-colored "Sha" (a type of cotton) to knit. Strictly speaking, it is not a type of hat. It just mean that any hat that uses "Sha" to knit was called "Wu Sha" hat. Before Sui, most emperor wore White Sha Hat. Most official wore "Wu Sha" hat. During Sui-Tang period, "Wu Sha" hat became the common hat worn in court. During Song period, "Wu Sha" hat had extended "legs" (a form of extention ). According to history, this was to prevent officials to engage in secret talks. By Ming period, the "Wu Sha' hat's standard design is: low at the front, high at the back, like a stair-case, the two 'feathers" are like the cow's tongue, had a length of 5 inches. Because during Ming period, only officals can wear "Wu Sha" hat, this thus became the 'offical hat" of court mandarins. By Qing period, "Wu Sha" hat was abolished.


An example of "Wu Sha" hat


I would like to know something. Is there a creator of all those hats
TMPikachu
One of my friends got a lowered score on a test when he described these hats as Chinese. The teacher insisted they originated from korean. Do you know of any credible sources (websites, books) I could use to show their Chinese origin (and migration to Korea maybe)
jhf0551
The hat in each dynasty is different. Before Ming dynasty, the official hat is called "Wu Sha", in Qing dynasty, it is called "Ding Dai Hua Ling". However, Tang and Ming's hats are very different. The hat picture above is Tang Xuan Zong, the two legs were flagged. If you want to learn something about the hats, you can go to Ming Tombs and Qing Tombs. Along the Sacred Roads, there are several statues. You can easily distinguish them from their appearance.
General_Zhaoyun
The "Wusha hat 乌纱帽" were usually worn by bureaucrats in ancient China. They originated from Eastern Jin period (age of fragmentation).

Below are some pictures:


Wusha hat of Tang period


Typical "Long Wusha hat" worn during Song period




Typical Wusha hat during Ming period
kaiselin
QUOTE
Typical "Long Wusha hat" worn during Song period

That Long Wusha hat is an interesting variation. I wonder why it developed. I imagine that any one watching from afar would instantly know who was speaking to whom but the angle of the 'antenna' It would certainly keep people out of 'your space'. It would make it very difficult to whisper into someone else's ear and if you were going to speak softly to someone it could not be as an aside but would require a face to face conversation.
General_Zhaoyun
QUOTE (kaiselin @ Sep 10 2008, 09:06 PM) *
That Long Wusha hat is an interesting variation. I wonder why it developed. I imagine that any one watching from afar would instantly know who was speaking to whom but the angle of the 'antenna' It would certainly keep people out of 'your space'. It would make it very difficult to whisper into someone else's ear and if you were going to speak softly to someone it could not be as an aside but would require a face to face conversation.


It's precisely for this reason that the "long Wusha hat" of Song dynasty had two long flaps (wings).

When Emperor Zhao Kuangyin 赵匡胤 founded Northern Song Dynasty, he wanted to prevent the officials and bureaucrats from whispering to each other during the court sessions. That's why he ordered that all Wusha hats to have two long flaps (wings) on its side. If the bureaucrats whispered to each other, he will be able to know who was whispering as the Wusha hat tended to shake/vibrate easily with the head during whispering, making it clearly visible to the eyes of the Emperor.
General_Zhaoyun
Qing Dynasty Bureaucrat's hat

For bureaucrats of Qing dynasty, they wore a type of hat known as "Rites Hat" (Li Mao 礼帽 or Da Mao Zi 大帽子). The ones worn during Winter were known as "Nuan Mao 暖帽". Those worn during Summer were known as "Liang Mao 凉帽". Below shows the pictures of hats worn by bureaucrats of Qing Dynasty.


General_Zhaoyun
For hats before age of fragmentation, please refer to our threads on ancient chinese coronals at
http://www.chinahistoryforum.com/index.php?showtopic=19472
This is a "lo-fi" version of our main content. To view the full version with more information, formatting and images, please click here.
Invision Power Board © 2001-2008 Invision Power Services, Inc.